Fashion Forward: Assessing the costs of Covid-19 on the Fashion Industry
Has the COVID-19 Pandemic propelled the fashion world forward faster than expected?
Before Covid-19 was a perceivable problem, many figures in the fashion world predicted that the fashion industry would change their presentation format in 2020-2021- possibly moving to showrooms or a digital model. This changed model would function to shed some of the excess that we see today, especially the celebrities, models and influencers who travel around the world to sit on the front row. They call it 'progress', but let’s be honest, what it is really, is a consequence of an economically unsustainable model.
It’s becoming more and more evident with every seasonal showing. We are seeing fewer designers participating in fashion week. This is largely due to economic concerns- many smaller designers arn't backed by larger parent companies and cannot afford the scaled PR and marketing budgets costing in the millions. Most smaller design houses precariously navigate their seasonal budgets, the muddy water of self-promotion, and the basic necessities every year.
Last week even saw designer Marc Jacobs call for a radical change of the fashion calendar, he convincingly argued that it was only necessary to have two shows a year. “I’ve only ever thought there should be two shows a year [...] The amount of stuff we make and the quantity we make and the amount of times it’s shown — it’s just so excessive. We’ve done everything to such excess that there is no consumer for all of it, and everyone is exhausted by it [...]”. Jacobs continued to share that he felt that “It’s all become a chore and it’s a chore that’s just a waste of time and energy, and money and materials [...] I just think that whole waste is taking the luxury out of [fashion], as well as the creativity out of it, because when you’re on such a tight calender and you’re just told to ‘produce, to produce, to produce;”.
Perhaps these are some of the reasons designers and fashion production companies are scaling down and choosing the path of 'less is more'. Or on a more positive note, perhaps it’s a matter of trying to achieve their sustainability goals. It could also be the next generation’s awareness of the many alternative technology and digital solutions available to solve this problem (while keeping the distinct tradition and the of luxury fashion shows alive). Think Pyer Moss and Gucci whose campaigns always move beyond traditional runway shows and editorial campaigns, and the newer and smaller brands like Omi Na Na’s sustainable pre-order collections and Hanifa, who’s small capsule digital runway show blew my mind away.
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Enter COVID-19; Has it impacted the fashion industry like it has already impacted so many others? Has it fast tracked the inevitable timeline of so many in the fashion industry? Will it seperate the old and entrenched and the young and flexible? In the early months of the Pandemic, many luxury stores closed temporarily due to a lack in foot traffic. But some major luxury stores closed down completely, propelled into early bankruptcy and the list continues to grow. What has become clear from these events is that while clothes are necessary, fashion is a luxury. When so many can't maintain their work, pay their rent and don’t know how they will afford basic necessities, fashion falls low on the list of expenditure.
In addition to these department and luxury store closures, Paris men's fashion week and the Haute Couture shows have been cancelled – scheduled instead for a digital showing in June and July 2020 respectively. Also, the CFDA Awards and other fashion adjacent events like Coachella and the Met Gala — have also been cancelled. Chanel has cancelled its cruise 2021 show in Capri, Italy on May 7, Gucci has cancelled its resort 2021 show in San Francisco on May 18. Giorgio Armani presented his fall 2020 collection in an empty theatre and posted videos of the show on the brand’s web site and social media platforms, Burberry postponed their fall 2020 runway show in Shanghai. Anthony Vaccarello, creative director of Saint Laurent announced that they will no longer be showing during Paris Fashion Week until further notice, instead he reported that he will design at his own pace. His decision, a response to the COVID-19 Pandemic.
So, those big companies such as Niemen Marcus and J.Crew Group that filed for bankruptcy due to the COVID-19 financial crisis- will they survive it? Some say this change was inevitable- that designers and consumers alike couldn’t maintain this pace and some believe that their recognition and store locations will help them overcome their current position, but only time will tell.
Who could have seen that in 2020 our lives would change as dramatically as they have? That we would collectively be in a worldwide lockdown? For many who haven’t suffered, this lockdown has gifted us a certain feeling of nostalgia, a return to a simpler time, a healthier place. Offering us an opportunity to turn inward, to enjoy home, to slow down and strengthen our relationships. Anna Wintour expressed it perfectly; “There is the saved time and money (and carbon emissions) from the lack of commuting. There is the freedom to accomplish tasks on one’s own timetable. There are no work trips on the calendar, no events to attend, so much less to-ing and fro-ing and running from one appointment to another. Instead of all of that, there is time—time as never before.”
The real question when it comes to the fashion industry is will it remain the same? Will it return to how it was or birth something new all together? And will it be as powerful? For all of it’s financial costs and waste, can you compare the adrenalin of being in place and space and watching a cultural signifier like the traditional fashion show reveal itself in front of you to the live streaming of that same show on the gram?
I guess we will have to wait and see.
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Click through to read more about the author Oxana Abramov Grofi and more on the topic of sustainablility in fashion.